Puppy Pit Stops: Relieving Skills Away from Home

Before our pups are ready for longer public outings, they need some practice utilizing leash relieving opportunities away from home and “holding it” on outings in their puppy jacket. This lesson contains two steps: Level 1 – Close to Home and Level 2 – Somewhere New.

Why It’s Important
Working guide dogs traveling with their partners will frequently be away from home for extended periods. Guide dogs must not relieve themselves while working in harness. As you can imagine, this is highly disruptive! Instead, they need to reliably relieve (both urinating and defecating!) when offered opportunities. This is important for the well-being of our dogs and peace of mind for their partners.

Prerequisites

• The pup readily leash relieves when prompted “Do your business!” in their hard surface relieving area at home.

The first time you ask the puppy to leash relieve in a new place, choose a quiet, familiar location such as in front of your house if you usually relieve the pup in the backyard. Pick a time of day the pup most reliably relieves (e.g. first thing in the morning). Walk (or carry) the pup over to your newly chosen relieving area and say “Do your business!” Give the pup the full length of the leash and encourage the pup to wander in front of you. Gently guide them as you usually do to move and sniff in front of you.

When the puppy relieves, throw them a little party as they finish and let them know how pleased you are with their behavior! You can even offer a kibble after they’ve finished relieving as long as it doesn’t distract them from finishing. Practice in a couple more areas near home, and at other times of day to help the pup understand that their job is the same (relieve when offered the opportunity to “Do your business!” within the boundaries of the length of the leash)

What if…

• They try to pull to another area or onto grass/dirt? Stand planted like a tree and gently encourage the puppy to stay within the range of the leash.
• They lie down to sunbathe (or otherwise seem uninterested in relieving)? Try to get the pup up and encourage moving and sniffing- these are precursors to relieving. Gently guide the pup with the leash if they get “stuck” helps move things along. If it’s been well over 10 minutes and the pup still hasn’t gone, give the puppy (and yourself!) a little break. Crating the puppy will help prevent any accidents and try again after 10-15 minutes. When you go back outside, consider ways to make it easier for the puppy to be successful (distractions, distance from their “usual” spot, length of the leash, etc.)

Once the pup is happy to relieve in new areas close to home, you’re ready to take them to new relieving pit stops! Start with outings that have minimal walking, like a ride in the car or sitting at a café. It can be easier for pups to “hold it” while they’re settled at a destination or in the car. It’s more difficult to “hold it” while walking – very gradually build up the length of time/distance you walk a pup on an outing to build good habits and minimize accidents!

When it’s time for a scheduled potty break, instead of driving home to relieve the pup, choose a quiet area, remove the puppy’s jacket and offer the pup an opportunity to leash relieve by cuing “Do your business!” With practice, the entire sequence (jacket off + verbal cue) will become the prompt for the puppy to leash relieve. In the future, this will translate to their partner taking off the guide harness and cuing them to relieve!

Here's a Tip!

• Be patient! It may take the puppy longer than usual to relieve in a new place, especially if it doesn’t have potty smells that naturally encourage puppies to go. You may need to repeat the “Do your business!” cue if the pup gets distracted.
• Some puppies can be anxious about pooping in new places (people too!) A fun game of tug can help them not only relax, but the physical activity may also stimulate the gut – marathon runners know this very well! Reach out for support if the puppy constantly needs extra help to poop away from home.
• Have a good sense of the puppy’s schedule so you know when they are likely to need to “go” but also keep an eye on their body language (getting antsy or unsettled, rushing or slowing, pulling off to the side). Your goal is to offer frequent enough opportunities that the pup never needs to “ask” – but it’s better that they do than relieving in the mall or grocery store without warning!

What if…

• They won’t relieve? If you know the pup should need to go, end your outing and head home. It’s better to relieve the pup at home in their familiar relieving spot than risk an accident on your outing!
• They are totally distracted? Think about your Rules of Three! Set the puppy up for success by choosing a quiet, low activity area first, until the pup is ready for more distractions.
• The pup looks like they might relieve on an outing? Find a suitable place to offer an opportunity as soon as you notice a change in their behavior (e.g. lagging behind, pulling to the side, getting antsy while settled, etc.). If you missed early signs and the pup indicates that they might urgently need to go, quickly find a spot to offer a relieving opportunity! If you’re far from any suitable relieving spots and the pup is small enough for you to safely carry, this can help prevent an accident (or uncomfortably running with an urgent need to go!) as you get them outside.
• The pup has an accident while you’re on an outing? Oops! It happens – no need to scold the puppy. You may have gone too long without offering a relieving opportunity or missed earlier signs the pup needed to go. Stress can also stimulate pups to relieve – were there other signs the puppy was worried or uncomfortable? Adjust your next outings and proactively offer opportunities to relieve to set the puppy up for success again. Always carry a clean-up kit in case of accidents.